Gringo Gone Home
Yesterday George W. Bush left Mexico, and for many of the local inhabitants of Merida and the surrounding countryside, it wasn't a moment too soon.
From what we have seen in the past few days, the Leader of the Western World appears to be very afraid, and his presence projected those fears onto our traditionally tranquil city in a most bizarre and invasive manner.
First came the advance team. The Diario de Yucatan reported that at least 2,500 Secret Service agents from both the U.S. and Mexican governments were in town. Who knows when they really started moving in, but it became obvious about a week ago as the area around the Fiesta Americana and Hyatt hotels started crawling with young, tall, clean-cut Mexican men wearing golf shirts and khakis and strange-looking gringo tourists wearing sunglasses. On one of our morning walks, we saw an elderly gentleman who appeared to be a local retiree, but he was wearing black earplugs with wires trailing into his shirt. The security men were serious but friendly (especially to Norteamericanos), even as they made everyone step through metal detectors inside the hotels. And all the changes were pretty low-key at first.
Then the metal barriers started showing up around town. First stacked on street corners, then gradually blocking streets and keeping cars from parking. Eventually there were pairs of black-shirted policemen on every corner within twenty blocks in any direction from the Forbidden Zone around the hotels. Then two days before the arrival of the leaders, ten-foot-tall metal barricades were erected that connected together to form a solid metal wall around the hotel area, effectively creating a walled city of three square blocks with heavily guarded entrances. To pass through the gates on Monday morning before Bush arrived, a person had to show their ID and have a good reason to be there. After his arrival, it was impossible for most people to gain entry. Once inside this walled city, the empty streets were eerie. Businesses on the ground floors of the hotels were closed and other businesses, like taxi drivers who cater to the hotels, were also effectively shut down. Schools around the hotels and around the pueblo of Temozon were closed for several days as well. Traffic was re-routed around the Centro Historico to stay clear of the Forbidden Zone encircling the hotels. Most people we talked to were not too pleased to have their routines, their income and their studies interrupted for this circus of powerful potentates, a circus that their government paid handsomely to host.
We read that similar walls of metal barricades were erected around the entire hacienda at Temozon, forcing people who usually walk through the hacienda on their way to school or work to walk miles out of their way. In fact, the entire pueblo of Temozon was put under a 9:00 PM curfew for a week leading up to the president's arrival and not allowed out of their houses when the presidents were actually in the hacienda.
Other chilling touches included the multiple flyovers with large military Blackhawk helicopters and F-16 military jets, arriving from an aircraft carrier stationed off shore. The helicopters flew lower than anything ever flies over the city, creating a lot of noise, vibration and a sense of intimidation. Some we talked with questioned the legality of the United States flying military helicopters over Mexican soil. Can you imagine the U.S. Government allowing Mexico's president to fly a full military escort over any city in the United States?
Some Canadian friends told us that the Prime Minister of Canada, Stephen Harper, arrived on the last day of these events in order to participate in talks with Bush and Calderon. In contrast to the arrival of the U.S. President, they told us he flew down from Canada on a commercial jet and drove into Merida by taxi, although we've not been able to confirm this.
We've been told that when President Clinton came here in 1998 to visit with Mexico's then-president Zedillo, there were no barricades or military flyovers. A friend of our assistant who lives in Muna, a small colonial town south of Merida on the way to Uxmal, remembers seeing Clinton walking down the streets of their small pueblo, waving and talking with passers-by.
In fact, Merida has a long history of playing host to world leaders and dignitaries, from Emperor Maxmilian to Porfirio Diaz to President Clinton. The protocol for the important visitor has traditionally been one of public ceremony and friendly invitation to enjoy the people and culture of Yucatan. The former president of Mexico, Vicente Fox, visited Merida and some of the surrounding pueblos at least twice since we moved here and was warmly received and moved freely among the people.
There was none of that this time. Bush and Calderon visited Uxmal, but no one was allowed near them. The two presidents and their wives had dinner at Hacienda Xcanatun and the wives visited Hacienda Ochil (hmmm, they must have read our article about haciendas...) But no one here saw the President of the United States unless they were invited to a private audience.
They say the president's people chose the city of Merida for its peaceful and friendly atmosphere. Admittedly, there were several small protests here before Bush came, but none while he was here that we heard of, though there were violent protests in Mexico City and in other countries during Bush's tour. We love our adopted city for its attitude but deplore the way the powers-that-be chose to use it for their own purposes, disrupting the very thing they came to take advantage of. It felt somehow insulting, even to us. We can only imagine how resentful many local Yucatecos might feel.
It was widely reported in the press that one of the main reasons for Bush's tour of Latin America was to counter the growing popularity here of socialist politics and especially the influence of Hugo Chavez, the president of Venezuela. If that really was his aim, it seems to us that he failed by design. There were no public appearances, no smiling and waving from a motorcade nor any speeches to win hearts and minds. Instead we were reminded of the distance imposed between poweful and ordinary people, the walls that separate the Latin and Anglo worlds, and the imposing military might of gringolandia.
But then, just as suddenly as they came, they are gone. The barricades are down. Business friends of ours in the Fiesta Americana have said we can come by their office now, because they are free again. Driving and parking on the streets that were emptied is allowed again, the small shops and parking attendants and taxi drivers can return to work now, feed their families and normal life goes on.
Frankly, we are left puzzled and confused by our President and by his visit to Merida. We know that Bush grew up in Texas, which has a long history of relations with Mexico. We know he and his family have many Mexican friends. We know he has a better grasp of the Spanish language and Mexican culture than most gringos, so ignorance cannot be what caused Bush to leave an impression that could only create the kind of resentment his tour was supposed to ameliorate. As U.S. expatriates living as guests in this country, we cannot help but feel that his visit reinforced old stereotypes and resentments toward the U.S. that may eventually - however unintentional, however impersonal - be directed toward us. Seeing what we've seen these past few days, we can hardly blame any Mexican for having those feelings. And so it seems to us that no one, not the U.S. nor Mexico nor the president himself was served by this visit.
Those of us who were here to witness the show of power and intimidation that this U.S. President brought to Merida will not soon forget it. Seeing and FEELING those jets and helicopters patrolling Merida in stark contrast to our usual tranquilidad makes us even more grateful for this friendly and peaceful place where we live called Yucatan.
- Al Giordano of Narco News reports on the real purpose of this meeting
- Diario de Yucatan's coverage of the Bush-Calderon meeting (in Spanish)
- The New York Times weighs in
Comments
remthealamo 16 years ago
working gringo,
FIghting the drug war down there?? Are you serious? Are you not aware of the Merida Initiative where we are giving $400million dollars in aid potentially after Senate approval? Sounds like you are using the U.S. mantra on fighting in Iraq. But im sure you are against that war as well. Ive travelled all through Mexico, even unfortunately to Ciudad Juarez which is an unabashed dump. I must make something clear: I, too, love Mexico as well. But to say that the country is secure or that the U.S. President was extreme in security measures is probably a stretch. Do you feel finding decapitated bodies is fighting the drug war? Do you think a serial killer, which is horrific in its own right, is comparable to the mass destabilization of Mexico by drug runners? It seems that the war is now front and center in the Yucatan as well. This saddens me as I am currently bidding on a house in the Yucatan area, and spent the last two weeks in Merida. I have been travelling to the Yucatan since 2001 or so. I have friends in Chetumal that live in daily fear of both the narcotraficantes and federal officials. I, personally, have friends who have lost family members to these pathetic drug runners and there bodies were found in Quintana Roo. I have seen a man shot in Mexico City at the Plaza de las tres culturas revisiting the student protests of '71 I believe. I was three blocks from a kidnap and shooting of hotel execs in mexico city in '03. I understand you dont like Bush, but whatever your opinions we cant deny that Mexico is under fire. They must try to achieve what Columbia has done as difficult as it will be. Unfortunately, my love of architecture and design will still have me purchasing property even as I let the place sit until a better time. Additionally, my girlfriend lives in GDL, so I am as intimately connected with Mexico as many of you are. Ive lived on and off in Mexico CIty (ojo de agua), Jalisco, Cancun and Guerrero. I was very disappointed with your Bush bash piece and really think your forte is more pasta tiles than it is political banter. It also divides this wonderful community that you have here. Furthermore, I purchased your hacienda book(in spanish for $1350 pesos...hijole!) and I really respect what you have achieved it is quite impressive. Rather than bash U.S. politics lets discuss more closely security of the Yucatan. My plan was to buy outside the city of Merida in one of the smaller towns. It makes sense that these drug running mules would try to destabilize and damage tourism. Mexico does not allow foreigners or naturalized citizens to buy guns, yet we can purchase their property. One of the bodies was found in the quiet town of Buctzotz (im not sure if i passed that town, but i know all the ruins from Xcambo to Ake to Mayapan). I have been through (and searched) by the military chcekpoints throughout the Yucatan and see the mexican military with there out of date issued weaponry. Is the Yucatan prepared for a heightening of the drug games? I think not. It would seem that ultimately the solution will involve American military assistance and training in a covert manner. The finding of these newer deaths around Merida and northeast in quiet pueblos implies that the noose has already tightened on Merida. I would really like to hear your thoughts on this new issue in a manner that doesnt rely on U.S. comparisons. I have not bashed Mexico in any manner to make my points nor do I place the U.S. on a pedestal even as I am proudly American. I actually feel that the relationship between Mexico and the U.S.(canada too) is one of the best in history, and will be increasingly important as China rises to further prominence. As an American who is often mistaken for argentinian, colombian and even mexican(!) i fret for the safety of my impending family ( i will marry my girlfriend soon) living in a quiet town slightly isolated. We are on the same side here, but im not sure if your dismissing this recent incident as isolated. It is not, unfortunately, and i regret to say that we'll prolly be hearing more gruesome tales.
Reply
Working Gringo 16 years ago
You should be grateful that we're fighting the drug war down here so you don't have to fight it up there, remthealamo. Seems the U.S. Government has learned a thing or two since the last Prohibition.
On the other hand, there are some random acts of violence we don't worry about so much anymore.
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remthealamo 16 years ago
before we go getting all silly about Mexican safety:
- The discovery of 12 decapitated bodies in the south-eastern Mexican state of Yucatan has shocked Mexico, Yucatan Governor Ivonne Ortega said Friday. Over the last three months, officials had received threats that bodies would begin to appear in the state if security checkpoints were not removed, Ortega said. She added, however, that she had no plans of giving in to the blackmail.
The checkpoints are part of a widespread effort to curb organized crime and were introduced by President Felipe Calderon in late 2006.
The 12 bodies were found Thursday, barely 48 hours before citizens were to begin protests and marches against increasing kidnappings and drug-related crimes in several cities around Mexico, including Yucatan capital Merida.
An average of 10 people are killed everyday in Mexico and at least three people are kidnapped.
Eleven beheaded bodies were found in the area of Hacienda Chichi Suarez, near Merida. The authorities said they heard of the killings after someone informed local media. The twelfth beheaded victim was found hours later in a different location.
The bodies were not only decapitated but naked, handcuffed and showed signs of abuse. Police didn't say if the heads were also found.
An initial report from the public prosecutor's office said the bodies showed "signs of having been killed with the utmost violence." They did not have bullet wounds and all the victims were between the ages of 25 and 35 years.
Drug runners active in the area are the prime suspects in the multiple murders. The gangs use the Yucatan coast to get large drug shipments into Mexico, either in motorboats or small planes that land in sparsely-populated areas.
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CasiYucateco 16 years ago
Actually, President Clinton visited Merida during his presidency and did not bring anything like Bush - US military jets flying over the city, helicopters, streets closed off from view with steel walls and barriers, and hundreds of security" personnel.
Clinton visited with a small Secret Service contingent and his limousine. Nothing more. No streets were closed. No US military. NO dogs were killed. City clife was not disrupted. Power military task force ships were not cruising off shore. And don't think for a minute that there were no terrorists back then. The difference between the two visits is simply the attitude of the office holder. One respects other nations and the other is a bully with zero respect for the law and diplomacy.
It simply is not true that what Bush did is "required" or "normal." Yucatecan security is perfectly capable. In fact, Bush would probably be safer alone in Merida than on the streets of Washington DC with his Secret Service bodyguards.
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Cri 16 years ago
Hi friends, I clicked on the above links about the dog killings but they seem to have been removed. Anybody got any copies they can post?
As a society can be judged by how it treats the weakest of its members, this action is one that is painfully indicative of how the Bush administration thinks/doesn't think. We need to be fully aware of the degree to which this administration has perpetuated paranoia. Indeed, other leaders have traveled in times of less tension. Yet other leaders haven't created as much tension by being so ignorant. This Bush has ignored the needs of his citizens, has suffocated the media so as to perpetuate ignorance and fear, and those of us who have the relative freedom of seeing how bad it can get have the responsibility of getting the word out so that fellow voters can get mad, and never let someone like this back into office!
The countdown is on!
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Habibe 16 years ago
I'm-100%-American-and-i-can-honestly-say-the-way-us-whites-embrace-this-mongoloid-from-Texas-and-all-the-brainwashing-that-goes-with-it-makes-me-angry-to-live-here- ~signed, SOON-TO-BE-THE-MINORITY-IN-10-MORE-YEARS~
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Ginny 16 years ago
Uninformed/ignorant!!! Blaming Pres. Bush for the usual processes of federal law enforcement. If Obama wins, he will be accompanied, as he was on his recent trip, by such pre-planning and entourages!! This is not a president's choice. Be happy in Mexico, critiquing from a distance, where you can be held without due process and never seen again!!
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Sorrowful 17 years ago
It has been interesting to read these comments. Just as another poster remarked, I have been to the Yucatan every year since 2001, and in my heart I have been investigating moving away from my country. I have many friends who have felt they had to go, and did - to Mexico, Canada, and Europe. Some are Jewish, and feel the lash of fascism here that has built up since the advent of Bush. Others see the disappearance of our standing in the world community. Now, many are trapped due to the housing crisis.
Try living next to Washington, D.C. if you think Merida was wrecked for a couple of days. There are barriers everywhere, guards, fear, helicopters. Our capitol city is covered with these scars all the time.
I envy you being away from our ruined country, and may join you. In the meanwhile, say your prayers that Obama remains safe, wins, and has phenomenal talent to govern, because he is inheriting a once powerful country in decline.
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CC 17 years ago
manuelito you are right. Jeb Bush, GWB's brother is married to a Colomba who is from Central America. They have a son George P. Bush, who is the grandson of a migrant worker.
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Roberto 17 years ago
The world will be much better in the Obama administration.
In the words of the Beatles, "can't get much worse."
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CasiYucateco 17 years ago
Boo! ;-)
It may be that people who are bold enough to move out of their own country to another with a totally different language and culture are bold in other ways, too.
For the most part, no one´s ever really proved bothersome other than the bureaucracy. And that´s just repetitious. Haven´t met any scary expats yet. A lot of entertaining ones.
Or do as many do and make friends mostly with locals. They have opinions about the USA too. This ´global economy´ world has us all latched together pretty firmly.
Cheers!
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